The Co-op Farm and Garden

The Green Resistor’s Garden Report

2012-01-06T15:01:00.000-08:00

Jan. 6, 2012

Another gardening year is rapidly approaching. Unseasonably warm weather throughout the country may be the harbinger of an early Spring. It’s time to start getting ready for it.

Get started on your dormant season pruning. Normally we have until mid-March to get this chore done but this year maybe not. Fruit trees, flowering trees, lilacs, anything deciduous may need your firm but gentle touch. And after the pruning is done and cleaned up, a thorough dormant spray application or two for insect and disease control.

I was out pruning my apples yesterday and I noted a much larger than usual number of tent-caterpillar egg masses. It has been several years since we had a serious tent-caterpillar problem and maybe it has come around again. Keep an eye peeled for this damaging pest!

The Co-Op will be using a new plant vendor this year and will have a variety of new plants arriving in March. I am excited about having a nice selection of flowering vines, grapes, hops, and several other new items.

Seed potatoes were ordered today for a March delivery. 700 pounds spread amongst eleven organic varieties. The most popular varieties always go quickly so mark your calendar so you won’t be disappointed.

There will be lots of nifty new items arriving soon in the Lawn and Garden department. We will have some really slick pop-up greenhouses, 9ft square by 8ft tall. I’m getting one of those! Also a “grow cage” that fits over your plants to prevent bird damage, and 3 styles of “grow tunnels”.

Fungus among us

2011-07-25T15:04:00.001-07:00

In case any of you have been watching, the pseudo-summer of 2011 has been unusually damp and cool. This kind of weather, while preferable to the scorching heat of other areas, creates its' own special problem. Fungus loves this kind of weather.

This year has brought us record crops of powdery mildew on a wide variety of plants, and lots of rust and black spot. Controlling these problems is very difficult as the weather is the major contributing factor. Using fungicides can help but they must be re-applied on 1-2 week intervals during damp weather. Fungicides won't cure the damaged leaves but prevent the fungus from infecting new healthy growth. Other things you can do to help include not watering through the foliage of fungus-susceptible plants, handpicking and disposing of diseased materials, and pruning to increase light penetration and air circulation into the foliage.

Another bumper crop in our summer-that-never-was is a high population of slugs and snails. Poison baits work well for these pests and there are pet safe brands available. Slugs and snails like cool, dark, damp areas so in addition to baiting around your precious plants, also bait around woodpiles, stone walls, or other places these mollusks can hide. If you live next to the woods, throw some bait in there and kill them before they get into your yard.

If you don't like using poison, try this trick. Take a piece of plywood, half a sheet or bigger, and lie it down in a shady area. Moisten the ground underneath, prop up one corner with a rock or stick, and place some pieces of fruit under the plywood. The slugs will love you for creating a damp shady spot with ample food. They will collect themselves under the plywood and in the evening you can go out with a shovel and chop chop chop. Leave the bodies there as slugs are enthusiastic cannibals. You can make a big dent in the slug population quickly, easily, safely and in an environmentally sensitive manner.

2011-06-02T10:59:00.001-07:00

The weather gods have finally relented and granted us the start of warm weather, so now is the time to get started on your warm weather vegetables. We are getting a late start this year and there is little time to waste. There are a few tricks that you can employ to make up for some of the lost time.

Growing tomatoes outdoors in our area is always a roll of the dice. Will it get warm enough? Well, it's not so much the lack of heat during the day that handicaps tomato production but the overly cool nights. You want to keep those little babies as warm as you can.

I grow my tomatoes in above ground planters, half whiskey barrels in fact. The soil in an above ground planter warms faster and the whiskey residue imparts a piquant smokey oak flavor to the tomatoes. I have cylinders of 4' tall fence wire that fit just inside the rim of the half barrels. I secure those cylinders using landscape staples, and then wrap them with clear plastic leaving the top of the cylinder open. This little greenhouse protects the plants from the cold wind and helps to hold in the heat. Then I paint black a couple of empty gallon milk jugs, fill them with water, and place them in next to the tomato plants. These jugs absorb heat during the day and give it back at night. Any dense, dark colored object, such as bricks, an anvil, or a bowling ball will work as a passive solar collector.

Because we are off to a late start this year there will be a temptation to over-fertilize to try to make up. Don't fall into this trap! Over fertilizing tomatoes will result in lots of luxurious foliage but reduced fruiting. Whatever fertilizer you use, you will get the best results by following the recommendations on the box.

2011-05-16T16:32:00.001-07:00

Now that the trees and shrubs are leafing out, the insect pests are starting to appear. Take a stroll through your yard and examine the new foliage for unwelcome guests. Catching the the little stinkers early, before the soon-to-be-warmer weather causes a population boom, will pay enormous dividends later on.

Here in the Lawn and Garden department we have several choices in pest control. We still stock several of the familiar chemicals, including malathion and sevin. These products work very well but, more and more; environmentally conscious gardeners are switching to organic products for pest control.

We have an excellent selection of natural or organic pest control remedies. Many of the newer organic products use essential oils as their active ingredients. We have a ready-to-use fruit and vegetable spray from Dr. Earth, which uses oils from rosemary, cinnamon, clove, and garlic. Organocide uses sesame oil and Yardsafe Insect Repellent contains cedar oil as its active ingredient. We also have a new granular insecticide from EcoSmart that uses a clove extract, called eugenol, along with thyme and wintergreen oils. This product uses peanut shells as a carrier. It is labeled to both kill and repel carpenter ants, ticks and fleas, earwigs, and a bunch of others.

We also have Neem oil, a very effective broad-spectrum insecticide/miticide/fungicide derived from an Asian tree. Other choices include BT for young caterpillars and mosquito larvae, diatomaceous earth, and a product called Spinosad which was first discovered under an abandoned rum distillery in the Caribbean.

. Many of these products are approved for use up to the day of harvest so you can confidently go out and nip the little beggars literally right in the bud.

2011-05-04T09:36:00.001-07:00

Spring has sprung, or so we all hope, and we need to make up for lost time. If you planted an early garden, as I did, and then watched as it rotted in the chilly gloom of a soggy March and April then get out there and replant. You still have lots of time to create a productive garden and the Co-Op has just what you need.

We still have a supply of seed potatoes although they are going quickly. Our seed racks have been resupplied and are brimming with potential produce. Our good friends at Burkhardt's Herb Garden and A New Leaf nursery have provided an excellent selection of tomato plants, including our favorite Early Girl and Oregon Spring varieties.

Our supply of Mothers Day flower baskets arrived Monday and they are exquisite! A colorful choice of begonias or fuchsias await you. Get'em while you have the best selection!

We are getting fresh supplies of annual and perennial bedding plants on a regular basis now. We still have a good selection of rose bushes to replace your winter losses and the magnificent deciduous azaleas will be blooming soon.

It's time to get growing again, so come on down!

2011-04-15T10:19:00.001-07:00

First, let me apologize for my tardiness in updating this blog. I recently underwent surgery to remove 2 potato-like tumors from my ears and I fell behind in my duties. I'm much better now, thank you.

The annual snowpack report is very promising, measuring 190% of normal. This means we will have plenty of water for gardening and landscaping. Check your garden hoses for wear and damaged ends. Out-of-round ends will leak no matter how tightly they are fastened. Here at the Co-Op we have a nifty little machine that will attach new factory-type ends to most hoses.

As your blueberries get closer to blossoming it is a good time to check the soil pH around them. Blueberries like a very acidic soil and sulfur granules are an easy way to adjust the soil.

While you are in our Garden Center check out Dave's newly expanded Power Equipment section. Dave has brought in an expanded line of Echo products, including the powerful and versatile Pro Attachment Series.

Chickety-Doo

2011-04-04T13:04:00.000-07:00

Another exciting new product we have, if chicken manure is what excites you, is Chickety-Doo. This is a granular product and much easier to spread than standard chicken manure. Chickety-Doo has all the same nutritional values as regular chicken manure so your lawn or garden will just love it! Chickety-Doo is sold in the handy 25 pound bag or the economical 40 pounder.

Eco Smart Insecticide

2011-04-04T08:57:00.001-07:00

The Co-Op now has in stock a wonderful new product. It is called ECOSMART ORGANIC INSECTICIDE and it is made from clove, thyme, and wintergreen oils.

This granular product is SAFE AROUND PETS AND CHILDREN. It is labelled to KILL and REPEL a wide variety of insects including carpenter ants, earwigs, pillbugs, fleas, and grasshoppers. It is easy to apply using any standard fertlizer spreader.

It has a pleasant spicy smell, unlike the yucky chemically odors of many of the conventional products. And it is made right here in the USA.

This may be the product for which we have been waiting!

2011-03-31T15:55:00.001-07:00

I have received a number of questions and so I decided that now, while I wait for the rain to stop, is a good time to dip into the old email bag.

Q. Why are my rhododendrons so yellow and what can I do for them?

The most common cause of yellow rhododendrons in Sequim is too much sun exposure. Most rhododendrons do best in a part-shade environment, especially in the 10AM to 4PM time period. Most rhodys will survive too much sun but will never be the rich green color. There is no chemical, fertilizer, or soil amendment that can correct too much sun.

If this is the problem in your yard you have 4 choices. Move the plant to a more appropriate spot, plant or erect something to provide shade, remove the plant and replace with a sun-loving plant, or live with an anemic rhododendron.

An iron shortage can also cause yellow leaves. The telltale sign of this problem, called chlorosis, is that while the body of the leaf yellows the veins in the leaf remain green. An iron supplement, either liquid or granular, is the cure.

Q.What is the best way to deal with the pesky moles?

There are lots of products on the market to deal with this problem. The fact that there are so many tells you that none of them work all the time for everybody. The Co-Op stocks an assortment of traps, baits, repellents, and asphixiants. The important thing is to be persistant in your efforts. Don't give up!! I personally have had some success with the Bosterra Mole Trap, although my cat, Quincy, is the all-time mole catcher

The Spuds...

2011-03-25T15:54:00.000-07:00

Here come de spuds! Here come de spuds!

It's a beautiful day, isn't it? The rain is coming down and everything is chilled and soggy. The late winter wind is whipping up whitecaps on the puddles. A delightful day! No, I haven't lost my mind. It's a great day because seed potatoes have arrived.

The Co-Op has nine varieties of seed potatoes this year. These succulent tubers are fresh out of the Eastern Washington and Idaho fields and are of top quality. All nine varieties are Certified Organic, so you know they're good.

Growing potatoes in the home garden is really easy. Potatoes want full sun and it is crucial that you have soil that drains well. Soggy soil produces sorry spuds!

I plant my potatoes in a trench, about 16 inches below grade. At planting time I mix Dr. Earth vegetable fertilizer and granular azomite in the bottom of the trench. Some folks buy big potatoes and cut them up into eyed pieces. I prefer to buy small potatoes and plant them whole.

As the vines grow I fill in the trench, being careful not to cover the vines completely. I build a framework of wood around the trench so as the vines grow I can mound around them. I don't fertilize them again after planting but I do keep them watered.

You can start harvesting "new potatoes" when the vines start to flower or just pick the flowers off and continue to grow the vines until frost kills them in the fall. Potatoes can be stored in the ground for a long time. If you dig them and store them, do so in a dark ventilated area as light will turn the spuds green and unusable.

A rose by any other name....

2011-03-21T11:28:00.000-07:00

A rose by any other name...

Our shipment of premium, grade 1 roses from Weeks Roses arrived on Saturday and I am pleased to say they are the finest roses I have seen in my 9+ years at the Co-Op. Big, fat canes and nice spacing, these really are fine roses. I only have 108 of them, so don't dawdle!
Some people say that roses are difficult to grow but that is just not true. In fact, they are easy to grow if you just provide what they need. Roses need full sun! Put them where the sun always shines. They need good air movement around them to help keep them dry. Don't plant them in a corner someplace where the air is calm and stagnant. Roses are greedy feeders so give them lots to eat and feed them frequently. The Co-Op has an excellent selection of fertilizers especially for the little darlings. Plants that grow lots of big flowers, like roses, need plenty of water. Keep the water off the foliage to prevent fungus problems. I won't deny that roses can get bugs but there are plenty of remedies for that. Treat them right and roses will reward you with the most beautiful and fragrant of blooms!
I spent Sunday afternoon helping my brother repair the steps down the bluff to his beach house on Discovery Bay. We had a very enjoyable time (he provided the beer) although that kind of work was much easier when we were 30 years younger. We would set a couple of steps then sit, rest, watch the eagles and enjoy the view across the bay. We got 9 steps set in today, only about 40 or 50 more to do, but we have lots of time. Working out there in the fresh air, admiring a magnificent view, just reinforces my belief that we all live in the most beautiful place in all the world. We all need to relax a little more and stop to smell the flowers. Especially if they are roses!

Grass in all It's Glory

2011-03-14T15:30:00.000-07:00

Green Resistor’s Garden Report

Grass, in all its’ Glory

I’ve been monitoring my haystack and staring at the pasture, trying to will the grass to grow. And finally, with these last few Semi-Springish days, the grass is at last showing some signs of life. But whether it is pasture or lawn, grass needs food now. At the Co-Op we have received our first shipments of lawn and pasture fertilizers and we will certainly have in stock just what you need. While it’s still a bit early for weed control in lawns and pastures, you can apply moss killer now and get excellent results. A couple of weeks after moss killing you can over seed if necessary. The Co-Op has a great selection of lawn and pasture seed blends perfect for our region, including our own Co-Op branded mixtures.

Have you ever noticed how grass and hair are so similar? They both seem to grow best in places you don’t want it to grow. Well, if you get unwanted grass in your driveway, along fence lines, or almost any other place we have just the product for you. Killz-All herbicide has the same active ingredient as the well-known national brand and 2.5 gallon jugs of Killz-All Super Concentrate are just $79.99!

The Co-Op stocks a line of indoor growing supplies, including grow lights, liquid fertilizers and a super-premium, all organic potting soil from our trusted friends at Dr. Earth. This new product is designed for medicinal herbal culture and is loaded with bat guano and lots of other goodies. It may be a little pricy, but it’s the bomb!

The Little Green Sprout

2011-03-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

Green Resistor’s Garden Report

One of the side effects of embarking upon a series of acupuncture treatments is a better understanding of the oriental concept of keeping in balance the opposing forces of yin and yang. Now when I look around I see this conflict everywhere. The yin of the New York Yankees opposed to the yang of every other baseball team. The yin of living in the big city opposed to the yang of living out here on the peninsula. The yin of shopping at the big box opposed to the yang of shopping at your local Co-Op. I tell you, it’s everywhere!

I was across the water in Seattle the other day to meet my new grand-daughter, the Little Green Sprout (6 pounds 15 ounces and doing fine, thank you). It reminded me that now is the time for looking for little green sprouts. Check your roses. It was a hard winter for them, what with the early November freeze. I lost some roses in my garden; you may have lost some too. A new shipment of top-quality Weeks Roses is due at the Co-Op next week and I’m sure we will have just what you need to replace your losses.

I spent my day off Wednesday turning the garden in preparation for planting. We have the first veggie starts of the season in now at the Co-Op. They are lettuce and chard. Broccoli is due in next week and seed taters will arrive anytime. Get those peas in the ground! It’s such an exciting time of year I can hardly stand it!

Pansy Parade

2011-03-04T16:34:00.000-08:00

Don't despair over our current blustery weather! I can almost guarantee that warmer Spring weather will eventually arrive. How can I be so sure? Well, my plants tell me so.

I was walking through my yard on Wednesday and I could detect several unmistakeable signs of Spring. My naturalized daffodils standing tall and strong and lilac buds swelling. My neglected pansies, having shrugged off the snow were unfurling bright new blossoms.

Speaking of pansies, stop on by the Co-Op and participate in Paul's Pansy Parade. We have a fresh new crop with lots of cheerful colors, only .99 cents per pot.

We have lots of new and fascinating items in the Garden Center including potato tubs (seed potatoes are due in next week), an indoor-plant watering system, and a new easy-to-use water timer.

Now is the time to start fertilizing as your awakening plants will be hungry. The Co-Op has an excellent selection of fertilizers and soil amendments and I'm sure we can get you, and your plants, all fixed up for Spring.

Dormant Sprays

2011-02-22T10:59:00.001-08:00

Greeen Resistor's Garden Report, part deux

Numerous questions have come up regarding dormant sprays, and pesticide spraying in general. While the science of pest control is much too complex to explain in these few paragraphs I will attempt to answer a couple of the most common questions. If I don't answer your question, come in to the Co-Op (not on Wednesday or Sunday) and I'll give you my nickel tour of spraying.

Dormant sprays are pesticide sprays applied during the time of the year when deciduous plants have dropped their leaves and are in a dormant growth phase. These sprays may contain a fungicide, horticultural oil, or some other insecticide. Regardless of what it says on the label, there is not just one product that is "dormant spray". The purpose of a dormant spray is to reduce some of the insect/disease problems that may occur in the following season. With a variety of plants in your yard you may require more than one dormant spray formulation for best results.

There is a multitude of insect and disease pests out there with varied life cycles and host plants. Unfortunately there is not one product to cure all the problems. If your yardman tells you "there are bugs in your plants and you need to spray", that statement does not provide enough information to make an accurate assessment of the problem or to devise a safe and effective treatment. If you do not know for certain what kind of plant is infested by what kind of pest then bring in a large, fresh sample. It is always easier for the doctor when he can actually see the patient.

Green Resistor's Gardening Tips

2011-02-04T10:38:00.000-08:00

I love February, don't you? It's the last full month of winter and the shortest month, too. We spend February in delicious anticipation, trembling on both the edge of spring and the beginning of baseball season. I know it is hard to get motivated to work in the yard when it is cold and damp but there is much to do now if we are to have a winning season in the garden.

If you have fruit trees, prune them now. If you don't know how to prune I'll be glad to give you some tips when you stop in at the Co-Op. If you can't handle the pruning yourself, hire someone to do it. We are very fortunate to have many skilled professional pruners in our community. And while you are picking up the pruning brush rake up any remaining fallen leaves. They will be loaded with fungus spores just waiting to pounce on your trees. After the trees are pruned, get them sprayed. One or two thorough dormant applications will make a big difference. Lime/sulfur on the apples and pears, copper on the cherries.

Spend some time planning your seasonal garden. Planting vegetables? Well, now is the time to start seed for cool weather crops like spinach, lettuce, broccoli, and cabbage. These can be started indoors, or outdoors in a cold frame. Stop in at the Co-Op for all your seed-starting supplies. And speaking of new plants, the first shipment of spring flower bulbs, seed potatoes, asparagus roots, and garlic just arrived and the fruit trees and other woody plants are not far behind.

Yes, I love February. It's ripe with the promise of a glorious year in the garden and I can hardly wait.

After Christmas Sale

2010-12-28T08:04:00.000-08:00

http://www.theco-opfarmandgarden.com/productflyer.pdf

The Co-op Gift Guide

2010-12-17T08:59:00.002-08:00

http://www.theco-opfarmandgarden.com/productflyer.pdf

December Bargains

2010-12-17T08:59:00.001-08:00

http://www.theco-opfarmandgarden.com/webcoupon.pdf

D.I.Y. Blog Squad Tutorials

2010-12-07T10:44:00.001-08:00

http://www.startrightstarthere.com/DIY_Tutorials.aspx

Fall Fertilizer

2010-10-01T10:06:00.001-07:00

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,198603,00.html

Reseeding Your Lawn

2010-09-28T08:44:00.001-07:00

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/reseedinglawn

Start Right project lawn

2010-07-22T08:31:00.000-07:00

http://www.startrightstarthere.com/project_lawn_july_10_exp.aspx

2010-06-29T13:41:00.001-07:00

http://www.startrightstarthere.com/project_paint_august_08_exp.aspx

Buy the right brushes for the job

2010-06-24T11:15:00.001-07:00

http://www.startrightstarthere.com/project_paint_may_10_beg.aspx

Start Right Start Here

2010-06-22T14:47:00.000-07:00

http://www.startrightstarthere.com/project_lawn_june_10_beg.aspx

Is your Soil Ready ?

2010-04-12T10:08:00.000-07:00

Too Cold or Too Wet? If you've read a spinach-seed packet, then you've probably seen the advice "sow as soon as the soil can be worked in spring." To read more of this article click here

How To Get An Accurate Soil Test

2010-03-22T10:08:00.000-07:00

How To Get An Accurate Soil Test

How to Compost

2010-03-15T15:17:00.000-07:00

1. Locate your composter on bare soil. Somewhere in your garden that is easily accessible all year round.

2. You should mix your Green and Brown materials evenly when composting. Greens are soft, wet materials like grass cuttings, vegetables and fruit scraps. Browns are harder, dryer materials like hedge trimmings and strips of cardboard.

3. When composting you should put a lot of materials in all at once. Chop large items into smaller pieces to help with the process. Try to ensure that your compost is moist but not wet – when squeezed in your hand, a few drops of water should be produced. Add water if it is too dry; cover and add dry material if too wet.

4. If you wish, add compost accelerator (young nettles are an excellent natural accelerator) to help speed up the composting process.

5. Keep adding materials, remembering to agitate the contents every couple of weeks throughout spring and summer to keep air flowing through.

6. Your compost is ready when it is dark in colour and smells like earth. This can take from 6 to 18 months depending on the materials used and the time of the year.

Vegetable Gardening for Beginners

2010-03-09T08:23:00.000-08:00

Vegetables are easy to grow and are very rewarding at harvest time. The most important requirements are sunshine and watering. Other requirements are a loosened soil, some fertilizer, and a little bit of weeding. If you have an area in your yard that gets sunshine most of the day (6-8 hours in summer) then you can have a vegetable garden. The first time you start a new garden requires the most amount of work, but don’t get discouraged, the work you do in the beginning does not have to be done again each year.

Building a Chicken Coop

2010-03-05T09:25:00.000-08:00

Here are 6 easy steps to get you started in building a chicken coop. Click on the link. March 27th will be Chick Days at the Co-op. If you buy $50.00 worth of supplies for your little feathered friends you will get 5 chicks for free

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Build-a-Chicken-Coop---6-Crucial-Elements-on-Building-a-Chicken-House&id=477219

Pruning Cuts

2010-03-01T13:23:00.000-08:00

Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.

Pruning living branches (Fig. 6)To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch (Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.

Pruning - Crown Reduction

2010-02-26T09:12:00.000-08:00

Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress (see drop crotch cuts in the next section). Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it with a tree that will not grow beyond the available space.

Figure 5. Crown reduction - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Approaches - Crown Raising

2010-02-25T11:54:00.000-08:00

Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have living branches on at least the upper 8 m). On young trees "temporary" branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.

Figure 4. Crown raising - branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

Pruning Approaches

2010-02-24T10:22:00.000-08:00

Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.

The most common types of pruning are:

1. Crown Thinning (Fig. 2)
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree's structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained (Fig 3A). Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed (Fig. 3B). Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.

Lateral branches should be no more than one-half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing "lion's tails," tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion's tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage. Branches that rub or cross another branch should be removed.

Conifers that have branches in whorls and pyramidal crowns rarely need crown thinning except to restore a dominant leader. Occasionally, the leader of a tree may be damaged and multiple branches may become codominant. Select the strongest leader and remove competing branches to prevent the development of codominant stems.

Reasons for Pruning

2010-02-23T09:26:00.000-08:00

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent ). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance.

To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree's natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention, plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning

2010-02-22T10:52:00.000-08:00

The objective of pruning is to produce strong, healthy, attractive plants. By understanding how, when and why to prune, and by following a few simple principles, this objective can be achieved.

Reasons For Pruning
The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety (Fig. 1A) involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health (Fig. 1B) involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourages wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics (Fig. 1C) involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open-grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

Chick days

2010-02-19T11:21:00.000-08:00

Chick days will be on March 27th. Click here for details

Klupengers

2010-02-12T08:07:00.000-08:00

Klupengers Nursery was established over 60 years ago by Joe Klupenger. Since that time it has been known as a premier source of Ornamental Maples, Rhododendrons and Azaleas and other specimen varieties of woody ornamentals. Today the nursery has grown into a substantial business.

Felco

2010-02-09T10:59:00.001-08:00

FELCO's aim has always been, and always will be, to offer innovative and durable solutions to commercial pruning and cutting markets. Even though our business strategy is very much oriented towards the professional market, domestic users are not left out: those who enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done must also ha...ve access to the best cutting and pruning tools.

Lilly Miller Specialty Fertilizers

2010-02-08T08:26:00.000-08:00

We’ve blended natural ingredients with traditional plant foods to produce unique specialty fertilizers. We’ve added a mix of nutrients that are available to plants quickly, to help them get off to a good start. We’ve added others that last longer, to keep on feeding plants for up to six weeks. Extra minerals are added where needed to ensure plants are never hungry for these essential elements. And we’ve wrapped these special fertilizers in eye-catching packaging.

African Bolga Baskets

2010-02-05T10:43:00.000-08:00

Bolga Baskets International™ is a U.S.A Oregon based company that provides beautifully hand-woven African baskets and hats, commonly known as Bolga Baskets, from a region in northern Ghana called Bolgatanga to patrons worldwide. With office and warehouse locations in both Ghana and the U.S.A, we are able to provide the largest variety of designs with the best quality and consistency that surpass any other supplier worldwide. As one of the largest suppliers of these very popular baskets, it brings us great gratification in providing a very large population of weavers in the Northern Ghana region an opportunity for full time partnerships and employment. With this opportunity the weavers are able to provide a better livelihood for their families and their future that they may not ordinarily have.

February Bargains of the Month

2010-02-04T14:15:00.001-08:00

2010-01-28T09:24:00.000-08:00

For over a century Mutual Materials has been the leading manufacturer and distributor of masonry and hardscape products in the Pacific Northwest. From the beginning when it was just brick to today when Mutual's product lines also include concrete masonry and hardscape products, Mutual Materials is committed to manufacturing the quality products our customers demand. Available at The Co-op Farm and Garden. Shop Local Shop Co-op

Down to Earth

2010-01-28T09:22:00.000-08:00

For 30 years, Down To Earth has been one of the country's leading manufacturers and distributors of natural fertilizers and premium gardening products. We take pride in presenting only the highest quality organic ingredients, which provide a sustainable and environmentally friendly approach to soil management and crop fertilization. Available at The Co-op Farm and Garden

Spring

2010-01-22T13:24:00.000-08:00

We are getting geared up for Spring...Shop Local Shop Co-op

2010-01-14T14:16:00.000-08:00

Hats, T-shirts, sweatshirts and hoodies..stop by and see our complete line of Co-op signature clothing....Shop Local Shop Co-op

2010-01-12T10:10:00.001-08:00

Blueberry plants have arrived...Shop Local Shop Co-op

Bogs Boots

2010-01-11T09:03:00.000-08:00

Are you looking for a great pair of boots to keep your feet warm and dry ? Stop by and check out our line of Bogs boots...Shop Local Shop Co-op

A New Leaf Plants & Produce - LocalHarvest

2010-01-08T11:32:00.000-08:00

A New Leaf Plants & Produce - LocalHarvest

2010-01-06T16:27:00.000-08:00

Check out these great deals. Click here then go to Latest Product Fyer

Coupon Sale

2010-01-06T08:49:00.000-08:00

Shop Local shop Co-op

2009-12-31T16:54:00.000-08:00

The Co-op will be closed on January 1st, 2010. Happy New Year!

Closeout on Christmas decor

2009-12-30T16:30:00.000-08:00

90% off Christmas decor big savings don't wait !!

Better Animals

2009-12-30T16:03:00.001-08:00

https://www.betteranimals.com/default.aspx